In this tutorial, you will learn how to make rocky cavalry bases. This is a great way to add some terrain variety to your games of Warpath! We’ll walk through the three steps needed to make a base. The first step is using rocks and glue or super glue for the foundation of your floor. Next, we paint the stones with acrylic paints that match our current gaming table setup. Finally, we cover up any seams between different types of rock with mud and more acrylic paint.
I must admit that if there is something about the army of Isengard I especially like, it’s their cargo and horses. Whenever they come through my city on Campaigns, these guys always have a different type or color for me to paint–it was hard not to see them in person all day! In this article, you’ll learn how an ambush works, so don’t miss out 😉
MATERIALS AND TOOLS
- Plastic bases.
- Polyethylene of 2.5 cm thick.
- Green-Stuff-World electrostatic grass and bushes.
- Glue and industrial white glue.
- Cutter and Coretta.
- Water-based acrylic matte black primer spray.
- I used Vallejo acrylic paints (200ml tubes from prior models). To make lighter browns, mix: medium gray, light gray, natural sienna earth, mars violet, and charcoal black.
STEPS TO FOLLOW
STEP 1: MEASURE AND GLUE THE CORK ON THE BASES
The first thing we have to do is glue the cork on the bases and then sculpting little by little. The idea was to make two bases with more rock to simulate the hidalgos ambushing, others with flatter rocks and some flat grounds but several loose stones. Here is used glue for plastic that usually goes quite well; I recommend testing it before because it can damage some types of cork. To make it stick well it is advisable to put a weight, 1 kg will be enough.
STEP 2: SHAPING
We will shape the stone according to the rock we want to simulate; I made different types so as not to repeat myself. We give other cuts with the cutter in various directions; then, we will provide a rough appearance with the curette. The more holes and cuts our bases have, the more realistic the sensation of realism will be when we apply the paint with the dry brush.
STEP 3: HARDEN THE MATERIAL
This step is crucial because it will save us from any breakage once the material is painted. I make a mixture of 25% water and 75% white glue, neither too light nor too thick, and I put a little black paint to know where I will pass the brush. We can also add some beach sand to give it texture. I apply the first coat and let it dry for 24 hours; then, I use another coat to cover the holes and cracks we have already made so as not to lose texture. This layer also serves to prevent the pores from sucking the paint when priming.
STEP 4: PRIMING AND PAINTING
We prime the bases with black acrylic water-based spray, the holes where the spray does not reach the paint will be painted by hand with a brush and black acrylic paint.
To paint the base, we use the dry brush technique. The idea is to give layers from a darker color, gray, to a lighter gray. At the bottom of the rock, I also provide an initial layer with two browns since this part is closer to the earth that we will put later.
The technique is simple, remove paint from the brush by rubbing it on a paper towel to apply smooth strokes with minimal color. Nothing happens if there are areas where we have spent with the paint; we paint black and start again. The paint is also personal; some people prefer a lighter or darker rock, give touches of green simulating some lichen or Musco, etc. The important thing is to dry the brush well not to put too much paint. Here are some pictures of the progress.
The base is given several dry brush coats of different browns (Violet Mars, Natural Sienna Earth, and Sienna Earth with White) depending on if you want them more or less clear. Here the rock already has the first coat with medium gray.
The rock has already been given another coat with Vallejo light gray, and then white was added to get a lighter gray. The last skin, this one only in the areas with more highlights, was given off-white, and then golden brown was added again for the base.
COLOR COATS APPLIED
The base of the rock: Mars violet, natural sienna, and then a lighter brown.
Rock: Medium gray, light gray, and then some highlights with soft off-white or off-white.
STEP 6: APPLY VEGETATION
The film looks like winter (the mountains are covered with snow), and the vegetation is dry; I mix different shades of electrostatic grass. To apply it, I put a thin layer of white glue and place it with tweezers; then, I pass a ruler rubbed on the hair to make it look as sharp as possible. As for the bushes, each one can put as many as they see fit.
For the sand, I use modeling sand. It is also very well the paint that already comes with sand texture, that to the taste of each one. I also use natural branches in the form of bushes previously hardened with glue.
We apply a mixture of three different types of electrostatic grass. To do this, put a layer of white glue, place it with tweezers, and once 24 hours have passed, remove with gentle touches or with the dryer, then just put the land and some details.
Subsequently, Citadel Technical texture paint is applied (Agrellan Badland) that the truth I have to say is very comfortable to use colors, last long and the result is very realistic. There are Citadel applicators for about 6 euros, but I did it with an old brush, and it was perfect. The scrub is also applied. Finally, I painted the edge of the bases with Vallejo matte brown. In the end, I used matte varnish in spray and water-based Liquitex brand.
STEP 7: PLACE OUR BEASTS
The miniatures of the hidalgos are a bit flimsy, so to keep them well attached to the rock and not to move, I thought of putting a toothpick in one or two of the legs. I made a hole with a paper clip previously heated with a lighter and glued a toothpick with superglue. The cargos that go directly to the plastic base do not need a toothpick; just put them in the hole like any other miniature.
Putting wooden sticks will help us give consistency to the miniature in general and prevent it from twisting or being too fragile.
Here I also put a spear stuck in the rider’s shield to give more battle feeling. And finally here is a photo report of how our cargos looked like. Since painting is not my thing, I usually work on the bases and those little things to compensate a little.
CONCLUSION AND PHOTOS
Well, here we would have our final result, all an ambush by the servants of Saruman waiting eagerly to attack the people of Rohan; I hope you liked the article and any questions I will be happy to answer. Thanks to Nuria Ramos for her collaboration in this article and Manuel once again for the photos.